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Toronto... the highs and lows!

Updated: Mar 10

Wild and Wet Niagara!
Wild and Wet Niagara!

So Georgia and I embarked on a trip across America in August 2024 with the first stop on our trip actually being in Ontario, Canada – the mighty city of Toronto.  I’ll be honest I didn’t know much about the city until I started researching.  Our thought process for this one was that we could visit Niagara from here rather than travelling north from New York, somewhere we have been numerous times before.  What surprised me was how compact the city is and how clean!
 
To start at the beginning we had a lunchtime flight from LHR which landed into Toronto at about 4.30pm (flight time is around 8 hours and 20 minutes.)  We flew British Airways from Heathrow Terminal 5 and travelled from our home in Essex to the airport via the new Elizabeth Line.  This was relatively easy but busy due to us not having to fly until around 1.30pm in the afternoon and catching the Thursday morning rush hour.  It’s also pricey compared to just travelling on the tube to Heathrow at around £36 for the two of us (single journey). 
 
Our intention was to get to the hotel using the Union Pearson Express which runs from the airport to Union Station and takes around 25 minutes.  I actually got the tickets online ahead of time so that we wouldn’t have to wait in line when we got to the airport ($25 each return). 
 
Unfortunately, the security system at the airport had other ideas and after a totally chaotic queue around the airport, with virtually no staff, help or guidance, having to fill in a declaration form, waiting a bit more, finding out we were in the wrong queue (!) we were finally spat out after 2 hours with a Canadian stamp on our passport only to find that the UP Express was not running!  We then had to endure a 55 minute uber ride into the city which at that time of day was absolute hell and we actually missed our first dinner reservation which was meant to be at Jack Astors.  To be fair we did call them to tell them we would be late and they said they would hold our table, but it was just too late in the end.  We ended up going to Farm Boy (which is like Trader Joes) and getting food there which we ate in our room!
 
We stayed at the Westin Harbour Castle hotel which overlooks the harbour.  A really nice hotel, spacious rooms (we had a queen bed each) and a nice bathroom with ample storage space and a good mirror (always a plus if you want to be doing your make up!).  There was a large closet, a good amount of plug sockets, drawers, towels etc.  We were lucky enough to get vouchers for free breakfast during our stay as well as we mentioned at check in that this was our first time in Toronto (thanks to the Front Desk guy Raj!). 
 
 
We had a great breakfast on our first morning, indulging in their hot cooked breakfast with toast, orange juice and coffee.  We did of course manage to squeeze in a couple of pastries – just for the sake of the blog of course!  All fresh, flaky and yummy. 
 
On day 2 we went more cereal, toast, fruit etc and on our final day we opted for toast and coffee as we were flying to Washington).  A really hearty breakfast is offered but pricey if you do have to pay for it – I believe it was around $40 per person.  No booking required as there was plenty of space, however you need to eat plenty to get your money’s worth! 
 
Remember that there is a Tim Hortons on virtually every street corner in Toronto and there is actually a Starbucks virtually opposite the hotel so there are other options for a light and cheaper breakfast.  I should say that one major plus was that they provided gluten free, dairy free and vegan options at no extra cost.
 
On our first morning in Toronto, we explored the area close to the hotel, took a walk along the harbour front, visited the outdoor Transport museum and then headed up to the CN Tower / Rogers Centre area to get our bearings.  We did wander through the pro shop (Go Blue Jays!) however a basic baseball tee will set you back around $200!  We opted for a magnet for the fridge and a squeaky toy for our dog!  We then headed back to the hotel for a quick change before heading out again to our pick up point for our trip to Niagara Falls (which was of course outside a Tim Horton’s coffee shop).
 
After pick at 1pm up we headed out of the city, did another couple of pick ups, and were then on our way.  We booked our tour through Viator (Day and Night tour) which included a visit to the Maple Syrup shop/factory/experience, a stop at Niagara on the Lake for food and shops, then on to the Floral Clock (a hydro clock) and finally arriving at Niagara itself at around 5pm.  There is full commentary on the bus but a lot of the advertised places on the itinerary are pass by only.  Even so, it does take in excess of 4 hours to get from the city to the Falls.
 
I very much enjoyed the maple syrup tasting at Maple Leaf Place, with three types on offer ready for you to sample and savour!  You are then given the opportunity to wander the large shop.  We did buy some fudge and some syrup but opted for a maple leaf shaped bottle which I believe was around $16 so not cheap – I think you could easily get larger bottles much cheaper in the city.
 
 
After this we headed to Niagara on the Lake – an absolutely beautiful town.  The tour takes you to a parking area which is around a 5-10 minute easy walk into the town.  There is a shuttle bus for those who are not able to manage the walk which runs every 10-15 minutes from the parking lot.  On the tour you get around 55 minutes to explore and although this is meant to be a food stop, there really isn’t time to queue for food or sit at a restaurant.  We therefore opted to wander the shops and ended up getting a couple of magnets (of course!) and a Christmas decoration!  A lovely town which I would love to take a full day to explore – maybe another time!
 
Our next stop was the Floral Clock which is a huge planted hydro clock which was interesting to see but by this time (pardon the pun) we were just desperate to get to Niagara!
 
On arrival at Niagara at around 5pm you are given your boat tickets and assigned either a blue or red poncho (which you will definitely need!).  The boat goes right up to the falls with plenty of photo opportunities.  It then sails over to the horseshoe falls, travelling right through the mist, up to the very edge of the falls themselves which in all honestly feels like being in the midst of a storm!  We both got soaked but it was an absolutely amazing experience.
 
After our boat trip (and a visit to the shop for the obligatory magnet) we headed up Clifton Hill to the Sheraton Hotel where a buffet dinner was served as part of our tour.  There really was a huge selection of food on offer but do beware that if you are on this tour the buffet closes quite early at around 8pm so don’t miss out!  It is buffet style and there is plenty of seating.

The Calm before the STORM!!!
The Calm before the STORM!!!

After dinner we headed back out and wandered up Clifton Hill.  Here you will find amusements, restaurants, bars etc – it really is very lively.  Whilst planning this trip we did initially consider having just 2 nights in the city and spending a night at the Falls in the Sheraton but discounted this as there didn’t seem to be much to do.  How wrong was I.  There are an abundance of activities you can do – there are the usual boat trips into the falls, you can visit the viewing platform (Skylon Tower), do the ‘Journey Behind the Falls’ experience which is part of many of the Viator tours, take lunch at the Sheraton, try your luck at the casino and shop along Clifton Hill.  There are also parks and a botanical garden around a 10 minute drive away.
 
At around 9.30pm the crowds started to gather at the waterfront to watch the Falls illuminated in different colours. Fireworks started at 10pm and after that we headed back to our coach and drove back into the city.  We arrived back at our pick up point at around midnight and walked back to our hotel.
 
 
So our second day was really spent exploring – our first stop of the day was the harbour boat tour.  This was booked through Viator and cost around £46 for two.  It basically takes you around the harbour with commentary on its history, the outlying islands, the harbour front itself, the man made beach, the small airport (the kids will love the low level planes as they fly over the harbour into Billy Bishop Airport!!), architecture and more.  A really good value trip which lasted around 60 minutes.
 
 
We then wandered along the harbour front to The Goodman Bar and Kitchen for a drink and to sample the local poutine! Pricey at about $16 dollar for basically chips, cheese and gravy but worth it for the experience.
 
From here we headed up past Union Station to the Rogers Centre, home of the Blue Jays, which we had seen the day before.  We then headed to the CN Tower.  This was again booked from home at a cost of $56 each via the CN Tower website.
 
 
There is a well organised queuing system outside and a pretty fast journey through.  After the usual ticket and bag check, there were photo opportunities (green screen photos that you pay and collect after your visit) before heading to the lift up to the top.  A great view of course especially looking down into the Blue Jays stadium and watching the crowd fill up the stadium plus the view out across the harbour to the islands.  The lift back down again lands you right in the middle of the shop (of course) where we purchased yet another magnet. 
 
Our ticket included entry to ‘The Top’; a slightly higher level with viewing area.  You can dine in the 360 Restaurant (definitely needs to be reserved beforehand) and you need not buy a ticket to enter the Tower, however there is a minimum spend of $75 per head.
 
For the brave amongst you, you can try the Edge Walk – strapped into a harness you walk around the Tower, some 116 storeys up!  Pricey at $199 each!
 
After this we headed out to the food market (St Lawrence Market) and had a wander around and got some lunch. 
 
After lunch we walked across to see the Toronto Sign which is in a square in the centre of the city set behind a small pond.  A great place for an insta pic although at the time of our visit there was an event going on and it was extremely busy with stalls, tents.
 
Next was a very brief wander through Dundas Square to see the billboards and numerous shopping opportunities before we headed back to our hotel to change for dinner.
 
After our full day we headed to the Amsterdam Brew House which is set on the harbour front, just 5 minutes walk from our hotel.  We booked this in advance and chose a salad for G and fish and chips for me.  To be honest, after a full day on a boat, up a tower, at a market, the sign and the shops we were exhausted and headed back to the hotel to pack as the next morning we were heading to Washington for the second stop on our tour.
 
Luckily for us the next morning the UP Express was back up and running from Union Station which was just a 5-10 minute walk from our hotel and we were able to use our pre-paid return ticket to get to the airport which took around 30 minutes.
 
I have to say I really did enjoy seeing what Toronto had to offer – there are obviously many more things to do here – I would definitely say check out Wards Island – there are numerous tours available from the city or you can head over on a ferry from the Jack Layman Ferry Terminal and wander around yourself. 
 
To visit the islands separately with a guide, I would recommend contacting Linda and Susan via Totonto Island Walking Tours (https://www.torontoislandwalkingtours.com/)  – they are both long term residents of the islands, and hold 90 minute guided tours of Wards Island during the summer season.  To do this you would need to book and pay via their website in advance (£35 each) and make sure that you pick up a corresponding ferry at the Jack Layman Ferry Terminal (journey time 15 minutes) in order to get to the pick up point on the Island in time for the start of the tour).   Tickets from the Ferry Terminal to Wards Island are just $9 for a return journey.
 
If you are lucky enough to be in Toronto for the baseball season I would definitely try and catch a game at The Rogers Centre; the CN Tower is obviously a must do and definitely try poutine – surprisingly delicious!  It is a totally walkable city, very clean compared to many US / European cities I have visited and G and I would definitely come again, perhaps next time as part of a trip across Canada so that we can get to see what Montreal and Vancouver have to offer.
 
See you on our next adventure
 
 
Tracey and Georgia
 
** check out our vlogs on our big trip across the US and other European adventures at georgialouisetravels on You Tube
 
 
 
 

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